
| From Mombasa, a memorable train trip across Kenya | Send to a friend |
| Sunday, 15 May 2011 08:23 |
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By Elisha Mayallah Holidays offer a chance to escape somewhere, anywhere. So, when my friend suggested a trip to Mombasa, who was I to look a gift-horse in the mouth? At best, I heartily agreed. Nearly half of Nairobi and the whole of Kenya move to the coast for some relaxation during holidays. This Easter was no exception. We had been in the coastal city for three nights and I found Mombasa to be one of the liveliest cities on the Kenyan coastline. Its renowned entertainment scene offers plenty to do for visitors of all ages, cultures and backgrounds. Unlike most cities where entertainment is within certain districts, Mombasa’s scene covers nearly the entire metropolitan area, from the noisy downtown, to the quiet but lively suburbs. It is one place where locals and visitors mingle around beachfronts laden with various activities. The whole experience is magical. When I arrived, the first item on the agenda was to stroll through the beach, making my way through countless people. I have been going to Mombasa for years, but had never used a train. So this time around my friend suggested we take a train trip back to Nairobi. I was uneasy, never used to a train safari for nearly two decades. Reminder of the past For time immemorial, the rail trip has remained a gentle reminder of the past. However, the clientele has definitely changed. The waiting lounge is now full of tourists. In days gone when it was filled with mainly locals. For two hours we stayed at the railway station after we had cleared our passports and ticket. All afternoon, people made their way to the waiting platforms: parting families in a hysterical state of farewell, and halfway down the platform the bar was full of tourists. Then the call was made through the loud speakers for all passengers to board the train. While settling in our spacious and comfortable compartment, I tried to imagine what it must have been like for the early settlers making this journey. With a loud and cheery blast of the hooter, some few minutes after 1900 hours the train pulled out of the station to begin a 15-hour journey. Delightfully, I watched my window as Mombasa slowly disappeared behind us. Soon we were chugging along remote villages, squatter camps, factories, suburbs and more. The train thinned out into a wilderness, and into the beautiful landscape of Kenya. Heads poked from the windows enjoying the easy camaraderie of the journey. An hour after we left Mombasa, the tinkling of a xylophone called passengers for dinner. The dining area looked immaculate with shiny tablecloths beneath monogrammed crockery and waiters dazzling in their white uniforms. The crockery is chipped and the cutlery did not match. However, efficient service covered this up. Back to our compartment, we were amazed to find it had been converted to a bedroom in our absence. Sheets and blankets were turned back on the beds. The dim lighting gave the room a cozy atmosphere and almost complete darkness outside the window enhanced this impression. The gentle movement of the train soon rocked us into a blissful sleep. A loud bell summoned us for breakfast the following morning. We took our seats, and a plate each with cheese and fresh fruit juice, an assortment of fruits, tea or coffee with boiled eggs and croissant. On our return from breakfast, our compartment had once again been transformed. The bedding had gone and the bottom bunk had become a couch. We took our seats and watched rural Kenya float past the window. Shortly before 10 am, the train pulled into the Nairobi railway station, after covering a distance of 530 km. A scattering of people made their way to the luggage store while porters bustled around competing for customers. |

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