Sound Living
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How Chaga Christmas migration became one of leading domestic tourism activities
What you need to know:
- The festive seasons, characterised by family reunions, cultural celebrations, and a surge in tourism, bring a unique vibrancy to the region
Moshi. Back to their ancestral homes on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro and the surrounding provinces, the Chaga people from the major cities and across the world make their annual return home.
The sacred tradition is of great importance, a celebration of the birth of Jesus Christ and the end of the year celebration.
The family-centred reunion is also an opportunity to uphold their culture and participate in activities that they would rarely do in the bustling cities and countries they reside in.
Mbege, a local Chaga brew, is normally on high rotation while family members narrate and reminisce about their ups and downs during the whole year.
Whether you are flying in or taking the bus, booking a ticket to the Kilimanjaro region during this time is a tricky affair; buses and planes are overbooked, and one mishap and you would be stranded and watching others having the time of their lives from the comfort of your social media feeds.
The significance of the return is more than just a one-day Christmas celebration; during this time, families could pay respect for the dead by visiting and cleaning the burial places of their loved ones at the cemeteries.
Elders would honour their ancestors and seek blessings for the New Year. Coinciding with the harvest season, the return home is also a time to celebrate the fruitful harvest and share gifts among families who haven’t seen each other for a long time.
The influx of travellers has an automatic ripple effect in all sectors, from the transport industry to accommodation and food services.
The Chaga going back home usually bring people unfamiliar with the place, visitors, outside family members, and acquaintances they have befriended in the cities and countries they live in, and to quench their curiosity, a safari tour is normally organised for the first-time adventurers flocking to the northern hemisphere.
Conveniently located, Moshi Urban is less than 3 hours from some of the finest national parks in Tanzania; a two-hour drive would wind you up at Mkomazi National Park, home of black rhinos and African wild dogs, with activists like game drives to view the elephants and giraffes.
A three-hour commute takes you to Tarangire National Park, known for its diverse wildlife and harbouring rare species.
Tarangire is one of the most sought-after destinations for travellers; a walking safari is also provided for visitors led by experienced guides.
The second highest peak in Tanzania, Mount Meru is just two hours from Moshi.
The Arusha National Park is another great place to visit during this short Christmas festival, where visitors get to canoe in Momella Lake, watch diverse wildlife, and also trek in the less crowded Mount Meru.
More than safari tourism benefits from this annual human migration, the spike of people spurs the Moshi economy exponentially; the taxis and Uber/Bolt services are at their highest demand during this time, and the hotels and big and small lodges get to accommodate all the visitors.
The festival events organised during this time, like the ‘nyamachoma’ event, bring in visitors from different countries.
The events are usually full of Europeans and Americans who have chosen to stay behind and enjoy their end-of-the-year holidays in Moshi; citizens from neighbouring countries like Kenya and Uganda are known to frequent these festivals, where the cultural display, from the sale of ornaments to entertainment, gets to promote the Tanzanian culture even more.
Social media is bombarded with viral videos and pictures of the holiday celebration, and this modern-day word of mouth helps promote the Kilimanjaro region as a vibrant cultural and safari destination for future travellers from across the world.
The economic benefits of domestic tourism are endless, as urban centres like Dar es Salaam see a temporary decrease in economic activities, the Kilimanjaro region thrives during this time; from the on-the-road clothes sellers to the Bodaboda riders to forex exchange centres, this time of the year is their best performance time.
The slaughterhouses work around the clock to keep up with the meat demand, a key component in the reveller’s daily food consumption.
Community-based tourism is also high during this time; some of the Chaga families open up their homes to tourists who are curious about their traditional way of life.
With the increasing popularity of coffee tourism, they show tourists how they make their coffee, from grinding coffee beans in their small-scale farms to brewing it, an activity that most Europeans who visit are amazed by.
Some open up their doors and show visitors their traditional meal preparation, their dances, and even explore the historical landmarks like the Chaga underground caves.
This promotes income for the local population while adding excitement and enriching the travellers.
Their proximity to the highest mountain in Africa is an added advantage; one of the most sought-after activities for short-time visitors is the short hikes around the slopes of Kilimanjaro.
With no intention to summit the mountain, visiting hikers would take short walks exploring the mountain and its vegetation while visiting the waterfalls, a serenity they can lay on their mats and enjoy a picnic away from the hustle and bustle of city life.
On the other side of the region, with an increased patronage in culinary tourism, the Chaga people have a rich traditional cuisine that is served in restaurants, hotels, and even by street vendors during this time.
Mtori, machalari, and the local brew Mbege are circulated widely during this festival time. Visitors, local and foreign, seize this opportunity to join in on the fun to have a taste of the much talked about Chaga cuisine.
During the celebration of the birth of Christ, churchgoing in the Chaga community is not only a Christian activity, but it carries a cultural significance among the locals.
Families dress up for the Christmas sermons, even for those who do not keenly observe the religious practices.
On this day, they make an exception; from adults to kids, this day is part of their way of life, and they take it as a mandatory activity.
After visiting the place of worship, Christmas time holds a special place among the Chaga; all the commuting back home is also to start afresh, welcoming the new year with friends and family, and reconciliation is of significance.
During this time, the elders reunite family members who have fallen out with each other, those who are no longer on speaking terms, and the differences between them are resolved and family reconciles before they welcome the new year.
With a high number of Tanzanians from the Kilimanjaro region residing abroad, their return home is vital for tourism; some of them come with extended family members who have heard from them all the great things about Kilimanjaro, and this is their only opportunity to see it for themselves.
The experience that they will carry home with them will be told to their countrymen and women once they are back there, and that word of mouth will later boost Tanzania’s tourism. It is still proven; there is no better form of marketing than that.
As the Chaga and their immediate family start returning to the cities and the countries they came from.
Kilimanjaro residents are left in a better economic situation that will prepare them for January of next year when the beginning of the year responsibilities kick in.
What they say
The influx of visitors from both domestic and international locations has significantly boosted economic activity in northern Tanzania, particularly in terms of increased money circulation and domestic tourism.
Speaking to The Citizen, a resident of Moshi, Nkasia Lema, pointed out that the seasonal influx enhances cultural tourism.
He explained that many visitors, including in-laws or fiancés from different tribes, tour local historical and natural sites, some of which require entry fees.
“These cultural excursions, including visits to historical graves, caves, and prayer sites, not only stimulate tourism but also generate additional revenue for the region,” concluded Lema.
Another resident, Mr Julius Tarimo, said many travellers to the region who do not own private vehicles rely on car rentals, bajajis, or motorcycles for transportation.
“This has benefitted vehicle owners, who have seen a notable rise in income, while fuel stations have also experienced increased demand,” he said.
Supporting this view, another resident, Moshi Mr Leonard Nkya, highlighted the heightened demand for goods and services, as visitors frequently shop at local markets and stores.
“Visitors also spend considerable time at entertainment venues, boosting sales for food and drink vendors,” he added.
The business surge typically peaks in the week before Christmas and continues through the first week of January.
Another resident, Mr Emmanuel Massawe, noted that many home returnees based in Dar es Salaam or abroad use the festive season to visit community development projects they support.
These projects often focus on building roads, health centres, schools, and other essential infrastructure.
“For many, it’s an opportunity to inspect progress and offer further support,” said Massawe. Additionally, returnees often participate in celebrations marking achievements in local charities and religious institutions, such as churches, orphanages, and elderly care centres.
Chaga’s Year-End ‘Counting’ Tradition
However, apart from hosting Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, after which the region is named, there is much more to discover in the area, including its developments in various sectors.
The region has beautiful landscapes, hospitable people, and a rich, unique culture, famously known as Chaga.
The influx of people in the region is related to Chaga’s tradition of returning to their homeland at the end of the year.
An elder, Mr Tadeus Mushi, told The Citizen in 2021 that one of the things that distinguishes this region from others and makes it unique is the cultural practice of “going to be counted.”
The practice requires the Chaga to return home to reunite with their families and celebrate the year-end festivities.
This tradition has made the region widely known, particularly in December when Chaga people from all over the country and abroad return home to celebrate with their families.
“During this time, entertainment venues, bars, and businesses experience a significant increase in sales, as people spend more, and luxury vehicles are often seen driving through various parts of the region,” he was quoted.
In rural areas, Mr Mushi (72) said it is the season for slaughtering and roasting goats (known as ndafu) and drinking the local brew, mbege.
But the big question is, what is the essence of this tradition, and what happens when people meet in the villages?
Mr Mushi, who was speaking in Kindi Village, Kibosho Area, shared the reality of what happens when children return home for the year-end celebrations.
The wise and knowledgeable person in customs matters (Mr Mushi) narrated the secret of this noble tradition, which brings families together and what they do when they meet.
He said this is the time when relatives and friends gather after being apart for the whole year, making plans for the upcoming year, including setting goals for the following year.
“It is a time for eating, drinking, and rejoicing with family, holding family meetings to set development plans,” recounted Mr Mushi, adding that after the festivities, people begin to leave and return to their work.
He explained that besides eating and drinking, those returning from journeys sit with the elders and pray for their departed loved ones, seeking blessings for success in the coming year.
“I expect my children to start coming home around December 20, and we will gather to celebrate the holidays and make various life plans,” said Mr Mushi as festivities were approaching.
“When they come, they sit with the elders, eat goat meat, and ask for blessings from the elders and ancestors, saying, ‘When I go there, may I succeed.”
Furthermore, Mr Mushi shared that when they pray, the elders often say, “Bless this one. When they leave, may their fortunes and blessings increase so that next time they return, they will bring more food for us.”
Mr Mushi explained that during this period, many goats were slaughtered, and some families designated special areas for slaughtering and feasting.
“Some prefer to sit in the centre of the homestead, while others set aside areas with grass where people sit, eat, drink, and share blessings to start the New Year safely and blessed.”
He added that due to this tradition, they believe that if a person does not meet with the elders and receive blessings, their affairs will not go well compared to those who meet with family and are blessed by the elders.
According to him, the tradition of family reunions is starting to fade in some areas due to some youths disregarding it in favour of modernity, which threatens the loss of this indigenous culture.
“These traditions are our foundation. The youth do not want to listen to the elders; they embrace modernity, and that is the beginning of societal problems,” he emphasises.
A resident of Okaoni, Ms Sophia Makoi, said during this festive period, people meet with their children and grandchildren, who get the opportunity to learn their cultural practices.
“This period is very important because, besides meeting with family to plan for the coming year, it is also when grandchildren come home to learn their cultural traditions and understand the natural environment they come from,” she explained.
Ms Makoi, who was at home teaching her grandchildren household chores, said the tradition of meeting is beautiful because it gives family members a chance to understand each other and learn about the challenges each one has faced.
She noted that nowadays, not only are the people of Kilimanjaro returning home, but some other tribes have also adopted this tradition as a way to strengthen unity and solidarity.