TRAVEL : My epic journey to Old Moshi

Moshi in the north of Tanzania has an abundance of off-the-beaten-track, out-of-the-ordinary gems to add to the traveler’s bucket list. Over decades the surrounding areas of Moshi have always had a special place in my travels as I have always returned for inspiration.

Beyond the borders of Moshi town, the administrative town of Kilimanjaro region, I recently joined tourism experts from Tanzania Tourist Board (TTB) for a tour of epic proportions.

Old Moshi’s vast green landscapes that stretch over hills and down to the valleys, laying below the sprawling rural areas, attracted me first-hand. The valleys and streams cut deeply into the dramatic landscape.

Ten km north of the current Moshi town, the old town was established by the Germans in the early 1890s and has remained fairly unknown to many visitors. It was overlooked by mistake for the wrong reasons. Naively, I suppose many travelers were corrupted by the imagination of the adverb – Old.

Located in Moshi rural, this area has nurtured a culture that goes back over 200 years. Hacking back to colonial past, there are some of the incredible sights that help to reawaken visitors’ senses of adventure.

Our host here was Old Moshi Cultural Tourism Enterprises and Gabriel Mzei, the coordinator led us to discover small details of the great history of the Germans and the famous local chief Meli, known locally as Mangi.

According to TTB national coordinator, Mr Elirehema Maturo, Old Moshi Cultural Tourism Enterprises is the latest addition to cultural enterprises scattered across the country. These are meant to support local communities as they showcase their culture, heritage and other natural attractions to visitors at a small fee.

The tranquil setting of Old Moshi sprawling villages spans through ten villages namely Tsuduni, Mdawi, Mowo, Tela, Msaranga, Mahoma, Sango, Kikarara, Mbokomu, and Kidia, which is reason enough to visit. This ancient area has a captivating history.

It was a historic day on 2 March 1900 when Chief Meli who defied the occupation of the German in the Chagga land was hanged on a tree in his early 30s. Chief Meli, son to Chief Mandara, who embraced the entry of the Germans, resisted the invasion of the Germans in his chiefdom leading to his arrest and death by execution.

The most iconic tree is found just opposite the former German court building (now a ruin) as a testament to the Germans past administration in the then Tanganyika. The tree is a welcoming landmark to visitors who arrive by road. It is often the starting point for exploring the historic village’s tour.

In the heart of the Tsuduni village lie incredible ruins of a German military base, a chapel and an old bell, believed to have been built in the 18th century as well as a mass grave in which six Germans had been buried in the chapel’s courtyard.

There is a slave market ruin nearby, which evokes emotional memories of the inhuman slave trade. Lila, an Arab trader is said to be the person who brought warm clothing such as blankets, bangles, shoes and mirrors in exchange for slaves.

The market building, according to Gabriel, was used as the holding area before slaves were transported away. Close to the market ruin, Gabriel pointed to a tree that was used to end the life of the weak or unwilling slaves. This was done in the full view of other captives so as to intimidate them.

Next, we walked through banana and coffee farms to a ‘sacred’ tree known locally as Msohu, where sacred rituals take place to worship and expect good fortune to the people and land. Luckily, limited rituals take place these days and are done secretly since most of the people in the area are christian converts.

Discovering the cultural village on foot is by far the most rewarding. Visitors are introduced to different activities leading to explore and discover varied attractions.

One of the main activities here is hiking to a popular waterfall, Kwa Mambori, one of the most picturesque. Its location adds to its charm.

The waterfalls, is a sight unto itself as it falls more than 120 metres from imposing cliff faces to form natural pools that are open to the public for swimming. The falls are a popular spot for adventurous visitors in the area and it is believed to be the highest around Mount Kilimanjaro.

Walk proved to be even more captivating, as we cautiously followed the winding footpaths carved out centuries ago by local inhabitants. Treading lightly along narrow edges, we were treated to panorama after panorama of powerful and utterly breathtaking vistas. Countless lookout points were interspersed with rests along the way.

Jonas Mowo, a guide, kept my safety keenly embedded in his day’s business. The hike starts from uphill and descends through valleys and water streams. The day drifted by as we ascended and descended, gazing dreamily out onto the surrounding landscape.

This is the place to go if you want to explore the valleys, streams with water that flow from Mount Kilimanjaro, exotic plants, and varied tree species with incredible lush greenery landscape backdrop.

We spent the last hour at the Mangi Meli Palace where Mzee Isaria Anael Meli,85, a grandson to Mangi Meli took us through the history of his grandfather. He wants a monument to be erected to honour Mangi Meli in the area, and the return of Chief Meli’s head which was taken to a museum in German.

It surely was a journey that brought incredible sights through great history and lush green landscapes through cultural villages.

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