TRAVEL : Greetings from Haapsalu

Roughly an hour’s drive from Tallinn, the capital city, along the western coast of Estonia lies Haapsalu, a town packed with history, warm winds, wide bays edged with sea grass and streets that lead to the seashore. My colleagues and I recently enjoyed an awesome time mingling with the locals and eating a pleasant seafood lunch here.

Haapsalu a quiet summer resort town, according to Ms Katrin Saks, director from the Baltic Film and Media school at the Tallinn university, has over decades gained popularity among Estonians, especially among the residents of Tallinn who come to spend their weekend or holiday here.

Visitors heading to Haapsalu pass through an old train station at St Petersburg, which was built by Russians. The train services to Tallinn started in 1930s. A few wagons still lie idle here reminding visitors of the station that was used by Russians as a court, passengers’ lounge, and emperior pavilion.

We were warmly welcomed at the City Hall by the mayor, Mr Urmas Sukles, who had arranged a surprise visit for us to see a few attractions in the small resort town located nearly 100 km from Tallinn.

After exchanging the pleasantries, we were then met by Ms Kaire Tooming, head of Haapsalu Episcopal Castle, a sanctuary of eternal love who took us on a tour. The castle is famous for the story of the most famous of Estonia’s ghosts – the White Lady (the eternal lover).

The rectangular Episcopal Castle, according to our guide, was the official home of the cathedral chapter and the oldest church in the town. The Dome Church was the main Episcopal church or cathedral and as a catholic church were a home and office of bishops and the court.

The rose window of the church Baptistery is connected to the legend about the sad fate of the Canon’s beloved girl. It is believed the young woman entered the castle dressed as a chorister and was walled alive in the chapel.

Every year when it is full moon in August, according to our guide, a silhouette of a woman in a long white gown appears in the middle of the window – This is the White Lady who charms everyone enchanted of romance. Plays dedicated to this legend are staged in the castle courtyard until today.

The castle in which a museum and Dome Church became operational in the 16th century is the only medieval cathedral in Estonia that has retained its original shape. Medieval government buildings had to serve as defensive areas against domestic or foreign enemies.

However, the castle church suffered damages in different times of its existence during the Soviet and Sweden occupation. An old war weapon is seen at the courtyard where visitors walk to the castle. According to our guide, in every war churches suffered the most as they were destroyed or vandalised.

In the 1980s initiatives of reconstruction began and in 1990 the church was ready to be used again. To this day, the church, which holds about 240 people, serves as a Lutheran church in the town, EELC Haapsalu St. John congregation.

Near the church’s west wing there is a 38-metre high watchtower with a 20-kms view. Today it functions as a Clock-tower and everyday at noon the sounds of the church bells resound all over the town. Only 20pc of Estonians go to church.

Haapsalu has a great number of pleasures to offer visitors and so our next visit was the Lace centre to see some national handicrafts. Here we were shown the handmade garments and Estonians handicrafts that are popular and known for over 150 years.

Woollen knitted lace shawls and scarfs have been the favourite artistic of the Haapsalu craftswomen. These unique artistic handicrafts have been known as Haapsalu shawls in Estonia and abroad.

The prominence of Haapsalu handcrafts, according to Katrin Saks grew in the 19th century when the town became the imperial health resort, in which Russians, and visitors from Finland, Sweden and the rest of Europe spent their summer time to make the most of rest, relaxation and leisure. They bought many handicrafts on their return and so is the situation to this day.

This rustic and tranquil resort town has found acknowledgement as a health resort. It has got healing curative mud and a wide range of modern attractive sauna and pool to recharge with a combined mental and physical experience at Fra Mare Thalasso SPA.

Here we were met by Ms Maret Sukles, a member of the Board, who proceeded to pamper and indulge us with the most therapy body and face treatments and relaxing procedures using the natural resources that surround them.

Fra Mare Thalasso SPA is located on the sea shore aired by the gentle breezes from the surrounding pine forest within a quiet yet romantic and cosy centre which offers spa, sauna, pool and gym. Social services such as food, accommodation, shopping and Internet are available for residents.

From the SPA we drove to find the Kuursaal restaurant for lunch. Kuursaal (Assembly Hall) was built in 1898 with the main purpose of catering for cultural performances and offered food in the restaurant and refreshments.

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